Action or indulgence in Australia

Leigh Reading and Elinor Sheargold toss a coin and take two very different holidays at home. Listen to their adventures!

Far North Queensland’s amazing natural wonders and reputation as Australia’s adventure capital are still very much intact, and make for a fantastic vale trip. Leigh Reading suits up and sets his fears aside for a far north fling.

My introduction to Cairns starts at AJ Hackett. As I walk in, I’m greeted by Marcus who, with a wry smile and larrikin …, delivers an explanation of what to expect, taking some creative licence to heighten my nerves as I suit up. AJ Hackett operates the only bungy jumping experience in Australia. Set high in the rainforest north of town, the 50 metre high platform is the highest viewing point in Cairns and gives amazing views across the rainforest to the Coral Sea. 

I’m here to do the Minjin Swing. Marcus takes me through all of the checks, and while safety is paramount (they have done over 100,000 safe swings), I can’t seem to shake the nerves of falling from 45 to one metre in three seconds. I do notice that it’s an amazing view as I’m towed to the top, ripcord in hand. Then… whoosh! After the initial freefall, the line catches and I’m flying through the trees at 120km/h. What a rush. What fun. What was I so nervous about?

The next day I’m in the hands of Barney from Back Country Bliss. We travel an hour north of Cairns to Port Douglas along the amzingly picturesque coast road, the wilderness to the left and rugged coast to the right giving it a distinct Hawaiian Island feel.

We arrive at Thala Beach and slip into our not-so-flattering Stinger Suits as we paddle out from the calm cove. The water is crystal clear and full of colourful fish that flit under our kayaks as Barney explains that dolphins, sea turtles and whales are a common sight. Reaching the headland it was time to ride the waves back to shore and head inland to one of the top mountain bike trails in Australia, “The Bump Track”.

I’d been looking forward to this, however my excitement turned to fear when Barney warned us about a common plant found along the route: the Stinging Tree. The heart-shaped leaves are covered by fine hairs which act like syringes that pack a mean sting. Once stung, the hairs stay in the skin and continue to sting you for weeks, if not months. Petrified, I set off downhill and immediately come into contact with trees (though luckily not of the stinging variety). Back on course, riding the track is hard work but absolutely thrilling, dodging rocks and trees, taking on mud, uphills, downhills and even a river crossing.

An hour in we stop to refuel with a drink and muesli bar, giving us a chance to admire the view from a lookout high in the mountain which looks right out to the reef. Barney lowers the seats on our bikes and we set of on the final part of the track, a kilometre-long steep downhill section over rocks. It’s by far the fastest and most adrenalin pumping part of the track, ending as you fly out of the trees into the open valley, still in one piece, and sting-free.

Venturing further north to Cape Tribulation, our next challenge is Jungle Surfing. Host Gordon (the accent’s Maltese if you’re wondering), helps harness us up then we head to the first platform to be hoisted to the top of the trees. Sitting in a harness being zipped 20, 30, 40 metres between the trees at 10 to 20 metres above the rainforest floor is an exhilarating experience. On one we stop halfway across, suspended 22.5 metres above Masons Creek, on another line we hang upside down, zooming along head-first above the forest.

Back at ground level we’re whisked away on a ferry to Green Island, for a snorkel around the Quicksilver Reef Swim circuit. With the sun beating down we have great visibility as we snorkel over the stunning coral formations, spotting hundreds of kinds of fish and at one point (what luck!) encountering a graceful sea turtle.  

As I sit on the plane waiting to head home, I reflect on the past few days. I had been wowed by scenery that exceeded all my expectations, experienced once-in-a-lifetime activities, and met people with incredible zest for life. Queensland’s far north lives and breathes adventure, making it the ultimate short break to defrost from the winter chill.

Leigh Reading

South West WA

“It’s one of the most expensive foods in the world.”  Rare, subject to the whims of nature, and fetching $1,300 - $3,000 per kg, black truffles are sought after the world over. Yet here I was, sharing a gastronomically memorable tasting plate of garlic-y/mushroom-y “black gold” delicacies for just $13. 

The Margaret River harvest trail is full of experiences like this. Leave aside the 100 or so wineries that the region is arguably best known for (not that we suggest you do), you’ll find boutique breweries, olive groves, orchards, venison farms and freshwater marron (local crayfish). But that’s merely for entrée. Liqueur lovers, fudge fanciers, cheese and chocolate connoisseurs can all tuck into world-class delicacies at surprisingly wallet-friendly prices.

And there lies the dilemma – so much choice, so little time. Choosing the easy option, we handed over  decision-making responsibilities to The Dude. As the name suggests, John O’Connor’s Wine for Dudes tours promise to uncork the region for Gen X and Y without the hit-and-run haste of most tours. Within minutes of being picked up, our 12-strong group had settled into an easy banter as John helpfully shed light on the difference between a bargain wine and wine bargain.  

Rolling up a vine-lined driveway we arrived at the first of the day’s three winery stops, Xanadu. No sign of Olivia Newton John or roller discos, but there was line of bottles and tasting glasses that Fran, one of the cellar door crew, had thoughtfully laid out for us to try. It would have been rude to say no. 

As we performed a kind of synchronized sipping, Fran took us through a refreshingly un-patronising lesson in wine-tasting 101. It wasn’t long before we were picking out flavor notes in the fruity Cabernet Sauvignon (berry and chocolate with an acidic kick) and quaffing multi-medal winning Chardonnay like pros.

No two days are the same with Wine for Dudes, who mix up itineraries to take in commercial biggies like Voyager Estate, family operations like Moss Brothers (try the Grenache straight from the barrel), and cottage industry creations that started up as hobbies.

In the case of The Natural Olive Oil Soap Factory, where we found ourselves next, it was the family’s search for chemical-free soap to help their eczema-suffering children that led them into the (olive) oil business. Rich in antioxidants and healing qualities, it’s little wonder this soap family’s empire has expanded into a delicious range of organic body products that you can try before you buy at the onsite shop. 

Fifteen dollars and several soaps later, I joined the others around a table at Hay Shed Hill Winery for our tour exclusive.  For better or for worse we were going to blend our own wine. “Master” John talked us through how to blend to suit individual tastes then we were left to our own science experiments. The result was a surprisingly tasty mix of Cab Sav and Merlot which we congratulated ourselves with over a gourmet alfresco lunch and amusing game of bocce. 

Margaret River produces a mere 3% of Australia’s wine output but 25% of super premium vintages. This means that pretty much every wine you try here is a winner – even when you mix it yourself. Bottles usually range from $17-20 for drink-now wines and $20-35+ for premium wines, but with 12 of us pooling money we were able to take advantage of Hay Shed’s discounted dozen, in the optimistic belief they would last until we arrived home.     

A post-lunch stop at the Margaret River Chocolate Company gave us a window (quite literally) into the chocolate-making process, as well as a chance to pick up some dessert. It’s touristy and pricey, but nirvana sweet tooths. Share the cost, and the calories. If you have time, just up the road the Margaret River Providore provides a delectable detour.
The day wound up with one last tipple to try, this time at the Bootleg Brewery, where we toasted to a day well spent (in both senses). Good food, good wine, and good company in equal doses. Cheers!  

Food fatigue cures
Atone for your overindulgence sins with the Southwest’s myriad of activities:
• Beaches and water sports go together like, well wine and cheese, and the Southwest’s white sands and clear waters are up there with the world’s best to surf, paddle, kitesurf, and dive.
• Land lubbers can walk the Southern Hemisphere’s longest wooden jetty at Busselton and check out the artificial reef from the underwater observatory.
• Explore a subterranean world of limestone caves, underground lakes and the fossilised remains of 65-million year old creatures. Eat your heart out David Attenborough.
• Enjoy lungfuls of unpolluted air with a walk amongst the giant Karri trees and coastal trails. Climb the lighthouse at Cape Leewin, Australia’s most south westerly point.
• Time your visit to coincide with the dazzling displays of visiting whales or wildflower season (Sept-Oct).