Columbia was never on my list of destinations, I’d like to visit. This coastal country in South America vas an enigma to me. I’ve only heard it should be dangerous to go there, due to drug issues, I also heard Columbians should be among the happiest people in the world and that their coffee is delicious. Everything else was completely new to me. Yet after five weeks of exploring this Southern American gem the only problem was not wanting to return home.
The capital – Bogota – has some 7 million people and is with the elevation of 2640m among the highest capitals in the world. You get used to the high altitude within the first few days and can easily explore the capital. Candelaria is among the most beautiful parts of Bogota. It’s the oldest colonial part of the town, with narrow streets and houses dating back 3 centuries. I walked down the square of Simona Bolivarja, where demonstrations were held – and felt the strong connection between the people. People on the street were really friendly and many of them would come up to you to ask if you needed help… or just to say hi. It’s true, only a handful of them speaks English, but with some basic Spanish you can blend in. Their variety of Spanish is among the clearest on the continent. I visited the marvellous museum of Golg and Godfather’s museum of art… drank traditional hot chocolate with cheese and cycled for 120 kilometers on Sunday, when all the streets are closed for cars. I joined the Ciclovio, cycling the capital.
Columbia is a varied country. It’s the only country on the continent on both Pacific and Caribbean coast. Both shores have beautiful beaches with untouched nature and naturally the colonial jewel of Cartagena. Cartagena de Indias has a bit less than 1 millionpopulation and is the fifth city in the country. It has well preserved historic centre, which is under UNESCO protection since 1984. Colourful houses, horse carriages, street music and some imagination take you back to the treasure transports from the Spanish Main. Cartagena is one of most tourists cities in Columbia, so you can find anything from a prestige hotel to local nooks and crannies with salsa music.
Green is the colour that best depicts this huge country. I’ve never seen such shades of green before. The nature follows us on every step from the snow covered peaks of Andes to pastures and rainforests. Columbians have great coffee and drink it several times a day. It’s less strong than our coffee, but still good. I visited Zona Cafetera, which is a world of plantations, flowers, coffee and palms covering green hills. On the beach with a friend I felt the traditional Columbian life called »tiempo columbiano«, this is the Columbian time, saying that life is nicest when it’s slow and free of stress.
San Gil is the place of great atmosphere, food and adrenalin. They have it all, from bungee jumping, rafting, cannoning, rope climbing… I decide to try descending the rope from the 80m waterfall. The way to the fall was amazing already, for we had to use ropes on the way up already, for the ground was wet, steep and slippery. The view from the top was phenomenal, but once I saw how low will descend; I lost my appetite for adrenalin sports. Why did I decide to do this? After a short hesitation I hooked to the rope and pushed down back first in the deep. The loud water and adrenalin took my spirit and mind to another world. Touching the ground I only wished to do it again.
In San Gil most of the life in the city happens in the 300 year old park, with huge trees and a fountain. There’s a village of Barichara nearby as well, where artists find their peace and inspiration. The main speciality of the town are the thick ants called hormigas culonas.
Life is a journey – they say – and this nicely describes the five day trek to the lost city. A group of hikers from many nations gathered and hiked for five days through many rivers, waterfalls, overgrown paths, slippery rocks and beautiful nature in line with indigenous tribes. Is there anything more mysterious than finding the lost city?
Some years ago guerrilla producing cocaine controlled the area, so first hikers were in danger of being kidnaped and the last such case was in 2001 when 8 tourists were taken. Since 2005 army controls the area and still keeps peace, order and security.
We started with a small backpack each, for we had a guide and a cook – but not a carrier. We put the food on the mules and headed into the wild. It was very exhausting at times, but always interesting for most of the path went along the water. The humidity made us sweaty so we often took baths in crystal clear water that was waste high. We arrived to the village, where we were to spend the night, completely soaked due to the afternoon rain. Humidity and soaked clothes were our companions all the way and we never got completely dry during the night either. You’ll be completely wet in an hour or two anyway, through sweat or river – doesn’t matter. But we didn’t mind any more, for each morning greeted us with a beautiful sunrise and the jungle gave us an inner peace.
We slept in hammocks in villages and despite mosquito nets you cannot avoid getting stung a million times. Two days into the hike I stopped counting at 120 stings and accepted it as a part of the adventure. There was no electricity and we spent the evenings at candles, good company and playing numerous card games.
After three days of ups and downs we arrived at the foot of the overgrown steps – the last obstacle on our way to the lost city. This was the most difficult part for me. Around 2000 steps ascending high towards the sky give you the feel you’re climbing up to heaven. But each stair case makes you feel there’s more ahead of you than you’ve already climbed. Everything seems really mystical, covered with grass and moss. Every now and then I stopped to catch my breath and feel the amazing energy of this place to finish the next 100 steps. I kept thinking to myself I’m really doing wonders for my legs and tush.
But reaching the top the effort was rewarded. The terrace at the top opened in front of me and the vegetation was lushes, the view was indescribable and the silence was deep. The lost city is not spoiled by tourists, which meant we were all alone there.
The city was discovered in 1975 and they believe it might be the capital of the Tayrona Indians. It was built sometime between the 11th and 14th century, but the foundation itself is from the 7th century already. It’s on the steep slopes at the elevation of between 950 and 1300 metres with 170 terraces and numerous stone structures. The largest terrace was meant for rituals. During the Spanish occupation the Tayrona were almost wiped of the face of the world and the Lost City was covered by the jungle. Being lost and forgotten it was rediscovered only in 1975 by the treasure hunters.
But our trip was not over yet, for we needed to walk back and it was two more days on foot. Completely ecstatic we kept walking the narrow paths, stumbling over the slippery rocks. When I got pass the last bent and saw a cottage where we first gathered five days ago I got a great victorious feeling. We looked at each other and let out our victory roar for we’ve done it!
After the trekking adventure a group of us went to discover the national park Tayrona, which boasts with one of the most beautiful beaches in Columbia. The sea is perfectly blue and the sand beaches and tall palm trees give you the perfect Caribbean experience. We lived in a camp with two beautiful bays and a special open house on the rock, where we again slept in hammocks. With fellow trekkers we became a small family, cooking together, having fun and taking care of each other.
The land of the writer Gabriel Garcia Marquez had a huge impact on me. Its greatest treasure is without a doubt the colourful nature and most friendly and satisfied people in the world. A smile on the face is a constant companion and the openness of the people is amazing. It’s a country that deserves a chance. It’s a country where you learn to live fully, happily and and with an open heart. It’s a country where you want to stay – forever!
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