Seven Days in Sicily, at the Edge of Italy

We chose Sicily, an island with a soul. I was already excited on the plane – not so much because of the flight but because of everything that was awaiting us.

Sicily isn’t just the largest island in the Mediterranean it’s a place with a heartbeat you feel the moment you set foot on it. In every town, every street, every cup of coffee, and every glance from a local, the past lives on, still shaping the present. Sicily is a mix of everything European and African, ancient and modern, orderly and wild. And that’s the beauty of it.

The island has a rich and turbulent history. It lies at a strategic point between Europe and Africa, which means it has always drawn the attention of the Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans, and Spanish. Every civilization that has landed on its shores has left its mark. So, it’s no surprise that in Sicily today, you can visit a Greek temple, walk past Arab mosques, admire Baroque architecture, and enjoy dinner made from an old Sicilian recipe with African spices all in the same day. Sicily is like a historical mosaic full of contrasts that come together to form a harmonious whole.

People in Sicily are something special. They’re passionate, proud, loud and at the same time incredibly warm. They have a strong sense of belonging often identifying as Sicilians first, before calling themselves Italians. Many still live at a slow pace, deeply rooted in tradition, which is why every conversation with a local is an experience in itself. Their rhythm is different, more relaxed. For a tourist who’s used to order, timetables, and rules, it can be a bit of a challenge but it’s exactly that laid-back attitude that teaches you patience and how to enjoy the moment.

In the land of fire and afternoon naps

This was our first time experiencing the siesta known in Italian as riposo pomeridiano or simply ‘an afternoon rest’. The siesta usually lasts from around 1 to 4 in the afternoon, when shops, offices, and restaurants close. People take time for lunch, rest or a nap. It's part of the culture and way of life, shaped by a slower, more relaxed pace of living.

And then there’s the mighty, mysterious and terrifying Etna. The largest active volcano in Europe and one of Sicily’s most striking natural landmarks. Its presence is constant a reminder that nature always has the final say. Etna is more than just a natural landmark; it’s like a living being. It breathes in and out, calm one moment, furious the next. Volcanic ash, often blown about by the wind, isn’t just a bother to the locals, it’s seen as a kind of blessing too. Thanks to Etna, the land around it is incredibly fertile. Grapes, oranges, olives – everything grows so lush and tastes amazing.

The landscape around the volcano feels almost otherworldly black, rocky, and raw.

A quiet morning, lovely view and an unexpected hero in Trapani

We landed in the city of Trapani, a special place on the west coast of Sicily. There we found a mix of European and African influences blending the modern with the traditional. Everything there moves at a slower pace. People take their time. In the middle of the day, life pauses for a few hours as the siesta begins. Shops close, restaurants go quiet, and the town drifts off to sleep. At first, I felt a bit nervous, wondering what we were supposed to do now. But I quickly realized: this is it. This is how you live here.

Trapani is a pure and elegant place, where everything feels clean and unspoilt. Only the sea is slightly restless. There’s a sandy beach. Breakfast? Superior! And one more thing: the lifeguard by the pool. The Italians have a lovely word for him – bagnino. Our bagnino was called Matija. That name really stuck with me. He looked after the entertainment and ran the water aerobics.

We hired a car and explored the island in a more laid-back, unplanned way.

On 26 June, we set off on our first trip: a boat ride to the Egadi Islands. The price was 30 euros per person. The islands there feel like something out of a dream. They’re rocky, windswept, remote, and surrounded by water in a thousand shades of blue.

The Egadi Islands – a forgotten slice of paradise in the Mediterranean

The Egadi Islands (Isole Egadi) consist of three main islands: Favignana, Levanzo and Marettimo, as well as a handful of smaller rocky islets. They sit just off the western coast of Sicily, like three sea-born gems scattered across the Tyrrhenian Sea. They can be reached by boat.

• Favignana is the largest and most visited of the islands. It's known for its breathtaking shades of blue. Once home to famous tuna canneries, the island today feels like a place caught between tourism and tradition.
• Levanzo is smaller, quieter, and more rugged. The houses are all painted white. There are no cars on the island, just a few bikes and walking paths.
• Marettimo is the wildest and least populated of the three. Nature reigns here with cliffs, caves, pine trees, and fragrant Mediterranean vegetation. They say Marettimo is the most authentic of the islands, as tourism has barely scratched the surface. That’s also why its coves are among the most beautiful and hidden in Sicily.

The sea around the islands is a protected nature reserve. The Egadi Islands are one of those hidden gems you don’t come across by accident, but once you do, you'll always want to go back.

At the top of Sicily, under a cloud of history and smoke

During our trip, we also went to see Mount Etna, a volcano that still stands guard today. The climb up to Etna was magnificent. The landscape changed with every kilometre; the air grew sharper and the wind stronger. Etna is something truly special. Majestic, raw, carrying the distinctive smoky scent of ash.

We also have wonderful memories of the Alcantara Gorge, which we visited on 30 June. At first glance, it looks like a natural wonder, but its story begins thousands of years ago with a powerful eruption of Mount Etna. Lava flowed down the Alcantara River valley and, on meeting the cold water, cooled suddenly, creating unique basalt walls with geometric patterns. The black stone columns, crisscrossed with vertical and zigzag cracks, now form a magical gorge through which the icy-cold Alcantara River still flows.

Visiting the gorge is a unique experience. Just entering the park gives you a genuine feeling that you’re about to see something impressive. The moment you make your way down the steps towards the river, you find yourself in a completely different world. It’s kind of like stepping into a natural cathedral made of volcanic rock.

Alcantara is another reminder of just how powerful and creative nature can be. The stone beauty carved by fire and water now lies still.

Catania and Taormina

By this time, we had moved on to another city called Catania. Compared to Trapani, Catania is a much bigger, more urban, and more chaotic city. It was nice enough, but personally, I preferred Trapani, as it’s more authentic. Less traffic, less rubbish, and more soul.

While staying in Catania we also explored the town of Taormina. There you'll find one of the most beautiful and famous amphitheatres in Sicily. It's an ancient Greco-Roman theatre called the Teatro Antico di Taormina. The amphitheatre sits on a hill above the town and offers stunning views of the sea and even Mount Etna in the distance. It was originally built as a Greek theatre in the 3rd century BC and was later adapted and expanded by the Romans. Today it is still used for concerts, operas, and film festivals, which gives it a special kind of magic. Sitting or performing on stones nearly 2,500 years old with views of the volcano and the Mediterranean is not an everyday experience.

Taormina itself is also one of the most beautiful towns in Sicily, as it is elegant, historic, and simply enchanting.

Catania still has its own charms, especially being close to places for fun and entertainment. We visited Etnaland, a combination of a theme park and water park. There were slides, waves, and plenty of laughter. Entrance fee was 20 euros per person.

After a few days in Catania, we returned to the city of Trapani. Slowly, our journey was coming to an end. On a hot July day, we were already heading back to Venice for our flight home.