The eastern part of the Pannonian Plain, which also includes part of Slovenia, is rich in thermal springs, a resource that’s been used for centuries. But spas aren’t the only thing that define this region. Our journey will begin with spa tourism in eastern Hungary and then explore other parts of the region’s history.
One of the most recognisable spa resorts in the area has developed around a fascinating lake. This lake, found in a town that shares its name, is the largest thermal lake of its kind, where even the Romans once bathed. It is fed by a cave spring at a depth of about 38 metres, rich in sulfur and other minerals, and the entire volume of water is replaced every 72 hours due to its high flow rate. The water, with a temperature of 40 degrees Celsius at the spring, not only has a soothing effect on the body but also offers a truly unique experience. Promotional campaigns of health resorts often point this out as well. Summer crowds are one thing, but swimming in a lake in the middle of a winter frost is a completely different story.
The spa looks like a big house floating on the water, with raised walkways connecting it to the shore. Due to the thick fog that forms when cold air meets the warm water or damp surfaces, you’ll probably only be able to see a few metres ahead on chilly winter days, which gives the experience a kind of mystical feel.
Keszthely is a popular lakeside destination on Lake Balaton. The largest lake in Central Europe, also a popular summer holiday spot, is surrounded by wine-growing regions where vines thrive in the unique volcanic soil.
Apart from water and other nature activities, I recommend visiting the Festetics Palace and the Balaton Museum. At Festetics Palace, there’s also an interesting collection called Travelling Aristocrats: Adventures on the Road in the visitors’ centre or the Amazon House. There you can see how people used to travel, what their habits and rules were, the tools that made their trips easier, and some interesting insights from the history of tourism and travel.
It’s interesting to compare this with today, when the accessibility of goods and travel is so different. Maybe material goods are more accessible now, but that could mean the experiences in the places we visit are less authentic.
A pleasant surprise – this is the only way I can describe my visit to this town. My girlfriend and I decided to stop here. This was one of the spontaneous points along the way that we had not planned. Why was it enjoyable? As you get up the stairs, a thermal lake awaits you in the centre of town. With its winter mist, it creates an indescribable magical atmosphere among the town houses, while at the same time teeming with different colourful fish.
The Veszprém Handball Club and the European Capital of Culture in 2023, are just some of the things that represent one of the oldest cities in Hungary. The district of the same name was one of Hungary’s most industrially developed areas until the 1980s, especially in the chemical industry, mining, and aluminium foundries. In 2010, an environmental disaster struck the town of Ajka when a reservoir of toxic waste spilled, devastating the area.
Seven hills rise above the city, one of which is Castle Hill. Here you will find a miniature city with a church, a cathedral, the archbishop’s palace, and other sacred buildings. The historical importance of the city is also reflected in its nickname, "The City of Queens", which refers to the tradition of queens being crowned by the Bishop of Veszprém during the era of the kingdom.
The town, which belongs to Veszprém County, can be seen from afar thanks to its stone fortress that stands on top of a rocky hill. It is important to mention that even after the renovation in 2022 and the new interactive exhibition, some basic information was still missing in English when we visited in early 2025. There were no translations for some objects and rooms in the castle. This shows a lack of effort to make the experience easier for tourists who do not speak Hungarian. However, the information on the website is also available in English.
Sárvár is another spa town, but it is located in Vas County and borders both Slovenia and Austria. The city is mostly known for its spa, but it also has a nice, well-kept town centre. It is a great place for anyone who likes to walk around and enjoy the surroundings, whether they have a plan or just want to explore.
In the centre of the town, there is a flat area where the bright white Nádasdy Castle stands on massive foundations. It is the symbol of the town and a Renaissance-style mansion that was first mentioned way back in 1288.
To wrap up, here is one of the most culturally important stops on our trip and probably on the itinerary of many other travellers exploring eastern Hungary.
The city is the seat of Vas County. In the area of Szombathely, there was once a Roman settlement called Savaria, founded in 50 AD. The historical identity of the city, which is a sister city of Maribor, Slovenia, is closely connected to Saint Martin.
Saint Martin was born around 316 in what was then Savaria and went on to be a Roman soldier. Many acts of kindness, such as the famous moment when he gave his soldier’s cloak to a beggar on a cold winter morning, led him to become a Christian and start his missionary work in his homeland of Pannonia. After living as a hermit, he was chosen as the Bishop of Tours. According to legend, he refused the position out of humility and tried to hide, but a group of geese gave him away with their loud honking. He became a bishop known for helping the poor and living a humble life. He died on 8 November 397, and his funeral was held on 11 November, which is now celebrated as his feast day.
Today, especially in Slovenia and Croatia, 11 November is celebrated as St Martin’s Day, known as Martinovo, which is a festival dedicated to wine. After this day, and with the blessing, the ‘must’, also known as young wine, is no longer considered impure but recognised as real wine. It is, therefore, a tasting of the new wine. The St Martin’s feast naturally includes the traditional main dish, the previously mentioned goose.
It is also important to mention Saint Martin’s Route (Via Sancti Martini). It connects many European towns and places that were part of his life or are linked to his heritage and worship. The route has been recognised as a Cultural Route of the Council of Europe since 2005. The main route is 2,500 km long and runs from Szombathely to Tours in France, where he was appointed bishop and where he is buried in the Basilica of St. Martin. Saint Martin of Tours is also buried there, and the route continues to Candes-Saint-Martin in France, where he passed away. The Slovenian section of the route covers about 550 km. It is also interesting that in Slovenia, more than eighty churches and chapels are dedicated to St Martin. Many places are also named after him, such as Šmartno.
The recommendations for the tour of Szombathely are as follows: the fountain of St. Martin in front of his church. Above the fountain, there is now a statue of Saint Martin baptising his mother. Nearby, there is also a mysterious cemetery, which is one of the oldest in Europe. Other interesting attractions include the main square, the baroque cathedral, the Iseum, which is an excavated Roman temple and archaeological site, the impressive city synagogue, and more. This concludes the article. If you decide to visit these places, I hope you enjoy your journey and the discovery of new stories!
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