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Icelandic Road Trip – Part 3

Day three – waterfalls, a plane wreck, the Skógar Museum, Dyrhólaey, and puffins

In the morning, we continued our journey towards the beautiful Seljalandsfoss waterfall, which is about a two-hour drive from Reykjavík. It is the only waterfall in Iceland that you can walk all the way around.

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Even though we were completely soaked by the end because of the water splashing everywhere, it was worth every single drop. If you go there, I recommend wearing waterproof clothing.

On the way to the plane wreck, we also stopped at the Skógar Museum, where we learned about how Icelanders used to live. We found the museum visit interesting because I wanted to understand how life on the island began, who the first people were to settle there, and how they managed to get the things they needed. The family ticket is ISK 6,000 and parking is free.

From the museum, it is about a twenty-minute drive to the car park for the DC-3 plane wreck, which sits in the middle of the black desert of Sólheimasandur. Parking costs 500 ISK. From there, it is about a forty-five-minute walk to the wreck each way. There is also a paid shuttle, but we preferred to walk and stretch our legs.

When we finally got close to this unusual site, we could see why this metal shell in the middle of nowhere has become so iconic. On November 21, 1973, a U.S. Navy plane had to make an emergency landing on an icy river that today spans like a black sand plain. None of the eight crew members were injured, but the cause of the accident remains unclear. It is rumored that the causes may include engine problems, ice on the wings, or human error.

The DC-3 US Navy plane wreck resting on the black sands of Sólheimasandur, one of Iceland’s most iconic and surreal travel sights.

After decades of being exposed to the harsh weather, the plane is now just a battered shell, but against the black sand and wild landscape around it, it has become an iconic sight for photography.

Just as the wreckage of the plane remained at the scene of the accident, we also noticed some overturned cars on dangerous road sections along the way. Perhaps they leave them there as a warning to drivers to be more careful, or maybe it is simply impossible to remove them because of the conditions. To be honest, I am more inclined to believe the first. Iceland is just too clean, organised, and respectful of nature to allow a mess for no reason.

Since we visited Iceland at a time when the days can last up to twenty hours, we really had plenty of time to explore. If you travel in the winter, you will need several days to see the island because daylight is limited, and many roads are blocked by snow, making it impossible to travel all the way around.

At the end of the day, we headed to Dyrhólaey Stone Arch, which completely amazed us. It is a mighty natural stone arch that rises above the black sandy coast, with a breathtaking view.

The viewpoint was on our must-see list because of sea parrots or Puffins. At this time of year, they had already started arriving in Iceland. Dyrhólaey is also considered one of the most beautiful viewpoints on the south coast. The view stretches across the endless black beach and the vast Atlantic Ocean. I thought it was really spectacular.

Puffins

Puffins are amazing birds that impress with their skills both in the air and under the water. They can dive down to 60 metres, and in flight they can reach speeds of 88 kilometres an hour, flapping their wings up to four hundred times a minute.

Puffins standing on the cliffs of Dyrhólaey, iconic Icelandic seabirds nesting above the Atlantic Ocean in their natural habitat.

Their bones are not hollow like most other birds, which makes them heavier and makes flying harder, but it also allows them to dive very efficiently.

Puffins are monogamous, usually mating for life, and they often stay together for more than twenty years. In the bird world, this is considered a long lifespan. The oldest recorded puffin, ringed on the Westman Islands, lived to the age of 38. Their average lifespan ranges from 20 to 25 years.

They arrive in Iceland in May and stay until late August. We also saw them when we went whale watching.

Important warning about Puffins: do not touch them. Their feathers have a special waterproof layer that protects them from the cold and the water. Touching this layer can damage or even destroy it, which can be fatal for a puffin.

After a full day of adventures, we chose to stay overnight in Vík, a charming little town where we stayed right by the island's most famous black beach, Reynisfjara.

Day four – Vatnajökull Glacier and Diamond Beach

Reynisfjara is a famous black beach, but it did not really impress me. Before the trip, I read about it and came across this description: “It is one of the most famous black sand beaches in the world. It is a place of wild and dramatic beauty, where the mighty waves of the Atlantic Ocean strike the coast with immense force. In 1991, Reynisfjara was included in the list of the ten most beautiful non-tropical beaches in the world – and it is quickly clear why! It is a unique place to visit and a popular location to shoot movies and shows like Game of Thrones, Star Wars, and more.”

Reynisfjara black sand beach with dark volcanic sand, powerful Atlantic waves and dramatic coastal scenery in southern Iceland.

And yes, we saw the camera crew on the beach, which was interesting. But honestly? I was not impressed by it at all. It was just one of the many black beaches Iceland has to offer, nothing different in particular.

You can access the beach from the marked car park, and parking costs 1000 ISK.

Vík – motorhome, breakfast and Skool Beans

The city of Vík was much more interesting. It is a touristy coastal town full of apartments, restaurants, shops, and one special attraction: a converted school bus called Skool Beans, which now serves as a charming little café on wheels. Unfortunately, we were in Vík just on the Tuesday when it is closed. If you manage to try their coffee or cakes, leave me a comment below, I would love to hear what you think!

Skool Beans Café in Vík, a converted yellow school bus serving coffee, one of Iceland’s most charming and unique café spots.

In Vík, we came across a campsite where we could top up our motorhome for free, and after breakfast we continued our journey towards the glaciers.

Vatnajökull – the largest glacier in Europe

Our goal for the day was Vatnajökull National Park and a visit to the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon and Diamond Beach.

Vatnajökull is the largest glacier in Europe, covering over 8100 square kilometres, which is about 8% of Iceland! It took us a little over two hours to drive from Vík to the glacial lagoon.

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