Lively Harbor and Beautiful Beaches in Rijeka

The liveliest part of the city is the Korzo street, reserved for pedestrians. It is lined with some of the most interesting neoclassical buildings, including the city clock tower. The tourist information office is located nearby. Not far from there, you can take a break in one of the small parks or visit the large covered market, which stands out with its Art Nouveau style and lots of metal and glass features. For a unique view of the city and the port, take a walk along Molo Longo, the longest pier in Rijeka.

The city’s many museums are also worth a visit. At the Maritime Museum you can learn about the history of the torpedo, as the very first one was made and tested in Rijeka in 1866. This new weapon had a major impact on the way naval warfare was carried out. There is also the Computer Museum, the Pharmaceutical Museum, the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, and the Croatian National Theatre, whose ceiling was painted by the famous Austrian painter Gustav Klimt.

For the best views I had to climb Trsat Hill, home to a Marian pilgrimage site and a 13th-century castle built on the site of an old Roman fortress. A long staircase leads to the top from the edge of the old town, but you can also get there by road. The city bus also goes up that way. Alternatively, you can expect a climb of just over half an hour. If you choose the stairs, be ready to climb more than five hundred of them.

Football fans might also want to visit the old Kantrida stadium, which is currently out of use and planned for renovation. The city's top football club, Rijeka, won the national championship this year.

Hostel in an old villa

One of the greener parts of the city is the Pečine neighbourhood. It is said to be named after the steep rocky shore above the sea, where you will find a pleasant suburb with lots of old villas. Some of the villas are in surprisingly poor condition, probably because it is hard to find buyers who can afford to restore them.

One of the renovated villas now houses an HI hostel, which impressed me immediately. The villa looks great and has a large shady garden and a quiet spot next to a low-traffic road. On the ground floor I was welcomed by friendly and chatty receptionists. I quickly got all the basic information I needed and got to meet the house pet, an orange cat. The cat loves getting cuddles from guests but is not allowed inside the villa. Sometimes they do welcome guests with pets, but only in the smallest rooms with a single bunk bed.

The rooms come in different sizes, each with its own bathroom, and are equipped with bunk beds and lockers for storing personal belongings. The rooms are spacious, bright, and boast views of the garden or the nearby sea. A buffet breakfast is available in the lovely dining room on the ground floor. The hostel is large enough to easily accommodate larger groups. If necessary, it is also possible to rent event spaces in the neighbouring school. Of course, free internet is available and works well throughout the building. Free parking is also available on the street, and finding a spot is not difficult.

The nearest beach is only a five-minute walk away. Along the steep shoreline there are several small sandy and rocky beaches, known as some of the nicest in the city. Stairs lead down to them between old villas and a few newer buildings. The paths aren’t signposted, but all the beaches are just a minute’s walk from the road.

The city centre can be reached in fifteen minutes. If you don't feel like walking, you can take the city bus, which has a stop right in front of the hostel. You can also rent a scooter, as they are available to rent on city streets. There are some cafés and shops close to the hostel, but you will find a much wider selection in the old town centre. It is located near the port and the water canal.

Rijeka is known for its lively nightlife. Rock music is popular here, and in December the city hosts the traditional Ri Rock Festival alongside the Christmas market. Much more famous is the carnival parade, one of the biggest in the world, with thousands of participants and even more spectators. Throughout the year, there are also numerous gastronomic, sports, cultural, musical and ethnological events.

If you start to feel bored, there are plenty of interesting places to explore in the nearby area. The small, fortified town of Kastav is a lovely place to visit. You can visit the much better-known resort town of Opatija, and a bridge connects the area around Rijeka with the nearby island of Krk. Fans of car and motorcycle racing often like to visit the nearby Grobnik track. It hosts international races and gives regular tourists a chance to test their skills on the track as well.