I began my trip through Eastern and Southern Europe in Moldova. It’s a country I knew almost nothing about, apart from the fact that it’s somewhere between Romania and Ukraine and not many tourists go there. That was exactly why Moldova appealed to me, as I enjoy discovering less visited destinations.
Before I set off, I booked a stay at a hostel in the capital, Chișinău. Shortly after, the owner got in touch with me on WhatsApp – the day after I arrived, he was organising a trip to the Pridnestrovian Republic that I could join at a fair price. Because I was curious about what life is like in that part of the world, I signed up straight away.
I arrived in Chișinău late in the evening, and the next morning we gathered outside the hostel. We split into two groups and set off in two cars towards the Pridnestrovian Republic.
The Pridnestrovian Republic, also called Pridnestrovie, and sometimes known as Transnistria, is an unrecognised state. Officially, it is still considered part of Moldova, but it has its own government, president, army, police, currency, and even its own postal system. It also has its own flag, anthem, and coat of arms, which strongly resemble symbols from the former Soviet Union. The capital is Tiraspol.
Locals call this place Pridnestrovie. I used to think the place was called Transnistria too, but when I visited, I found out that’s not quite right. The term Transnistria was used by Romanian forces during World War II when they occupied the area and carried out mass killings. Because of this history, the word is linked to pain, war, and genocide. Later, in the early 1990s, some Moldovan and Romanian nationalists used the term again during the conflict, this time as an insult. For many people living there, the word Transnistria is a reminder of violence, so calling it Pridnestrovie or the Pridnestrovian Republic feels more respectful and right.
The area lies between the Dniester River and the border with Ukraine. They also control the town of Bender, despite it being on the other side of the river. Moldova has no control over this territory, even though it officially still considers it part of the country.
In 1992, after the Soviet Union collapsed, a conflict erupted between Pridnestrovie and Moldova that claimed about 700 lives. A ceasefire followed and is still in place today, with Russian troops remaining in the region. In 2006, a referendum was held on joining Russia, but it was not recognised by the international community. Since then, the Pridnestrovian Republic has repeatedly expressed a desire to join Russia, especially following recent events in Ukraine.
Today, the area remains something of a grey zone. It is not officially recognised, but in practice it operates like an independent country. It is considered one of the so-called frozen conflicts in the former Soviet republics.
Before we left, we were told not to take any cameras or filming gear with us. That’s because the authorities don’t trust outsiders, especially journalists or anyone who might be filming for the media. Taking photos on your phone was allowed, as long as it wasn’t near certain checkpoints or military buildings.
When we reached the border between the two territories, we had to hand over our passports. Instead of a stamp, we were given a small slip of paper to confirm we had entered. Crossing the border went smoothly without any problems.
First, we stopped at an old cemetery where the guide shared some history of the area and then explained the situation today. Only about 400,000 people still live in the Pridnestrovian Republic, as many have left because of low wages and a lack of opportunities. Most of them commute daily by bus to Chișinău for work. As a result, almost all apartments in and around Bender are empty, giving the city a rather deserted look.
On our guided tour, we then stopped at Bendery Fortress, one of the oldest buildings in the region. It sits right by the Dniester River and has quite a rich history. In the 13th century, Genoese ships sailed up the river from the Black Sea, coming from Akkerman Fortress. Sailors and traders built a fortified outpost on the high right bank of the river, which served as both a fortress and a trading post. They wanted to protect themselves, their goods, and especially the important river crossing that ran through the area.
Today, the Bendery Fortress stands as a reminder of the many empires that fought for control of this area over the centuries. One of the towers at Bendery Fortress has a torture museum showing some of the most famous medieval torture devices used in Europe. At the time of our visit, they were preparing the fortress for an evening concert.
In the capital Tiraspol, we first visited the mighty government building, often referred to by locals as the Presidential Palace. It is home to the parliament and government of Pridnestrovie. A large statue of Lenin stands in front of the building.
After that, we walked to Suvorov Square, the main square in Tiraspol. On the left side of the square stands the largest state coat of arms in Pridnestrovie, decorated with a hammer and sickle and images of grapes, potatoes, corn, and wheat.
In the square, there is also a large monument to Russian General Alexander Suvorov, one of the city’s founders.
Next, we had lunch in a proper Soviet-style canteen, enjoying some tasty traditional dishes. We also stopped at a small shop where everyone could pick out a souvenir. All of this was included in the price of the tour.
When we left Tiraspol, we still had a lot of sightseeing to do. One interesting experience was crossing the Dniester River on a special ferry that moves using only the river’s current. The ferry is attached to an old steel cable stretched across the river, and the current pushes it from one bank to the other. There was only room for about three cars. While we waited, we were able to get out of the car and observe how this old Soviet-era device operated.
On the way we saw quite a few Lenin statues. There is one in every settlement, around 15 in total.
We also visited a monastery, known as Chițcani or Kitskany. It is a male Orthodox monastic complex and one of the most well-known religious sites in the region. Its main attraction is the tallest bell tower in the country, offering visitors a view of the Dniester River and the surrounding landscape. We were able to go to the top and see the bell up close.
The complex includes several churches, monastic buildings, and neatly kept inner courtyards, all of which create a sense of peace and order. The architecture reflects the traditional Moldovan style with Orthodox elements and preserves the site's historical significance. We took time to admire the beautiful frescoes inside the churches before taking a break with a light lunch.
The tour was quite long, taking almost eleven hours. On the way, we kept stopping to see several monuments, statues and historic buildings that are scattered around the region. As evening approached, we began making our way back to Chişinău.
I spent the next few days in Chişinău at a hostel, where I met interesting people and explored this charming little capital city.
In the city centre, not far from the hostel, there was a lake where it was nice to take a walk, and on hot afternoons, even have a swim.
On the last day, I also took a free guided tour of the city. In the heart of Chişinău, we explored the key symbols and landmarks of Moldova’s capital. For example, we visited the central park, which is the green heart of the city and is named after one of the country’s most important historical leaders, Stephen the Great. There is also a statue of him in the park.
Close to the park is the Triumphal Arch, marking an important spot in the city’s historic centre. The area around it is surrounded by the parliament building, the government offices, and the Presidential Palace, which together form Moldova’s administrative and political centre.
The city offers an insight into a variety of architectural styles. The legacy of the Soviet era is evident in the massive apartment blocks and public buildings. There are also historic buildings that stand out, like Chișinău City Hall, which with its eclectic architecture reflects the late 19th century.
Moldova really took me by surprise in a good way. Although it’s not your typical tourist destination, that’s exactly what makes it unique. The cities of Chişinău and Tiraspol both have a rich history, interesting architecture, and a strong sense of authenticity.
Above all, a visit to the Pridnestrovian Republic was something I will not forget. Visiting a place that officially doesn’t exist but has all the features of a real country is truly something special.
I was also really impressed by the capital, Chişinău. It’s a small but lively city where you can enjoy the architecture, and there are plenty of bars to keep the nightlife going.
Moldova is a great choice for anyone looking for something a bit different. The history, culture, and everyday life there offer much more than I had imagined before going.
Finally, I’d like to thank the organiser and owner of the hostel, Rubens, who did a fantastic job organising and leading the trip to Pridnestrovie. If you’re heading to Moldova and want an authentic visit to the Pridnestrovian Republic with a great guide at a good price, drop me a message for his contact details!
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