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Chernobyl 25 years latter – part I

Chernobyl, the site of the worst nuclear catastrophe in history, has opened its doors to the public

Although it might seem morbid, it’s true. The Ukrainian government opened up a large area of Chernobyl, including the town of Pripjat – the ghost town – along with some other parts, which were hermetically sealed off, for the public. Once closed off area is only to be visited in the escort of the state agency Černobil Interinform, from Kiev, the capital of Ukraine, or with a few agencies that have a contract with the state agency.

Content

After a two hour drive from the capital, which is accompanied with the documentary about the terrifying meltdown, we arrive to the checkpoint, where passports are examined.

Next stop is the town of Chernobyl itself, where we are instructed in safety.

The town had 13.000 people living in it, but is today the residing area only for the personal that works and lives in the constricted area.

The employees, who work there, including our guide, receive special bonuses for working there. They only work each other week, with 60 days of paid vacations a year and the possibility of an early retirement (from guides, to especially military, police and fire-fighters as well as other personnel).

The tour of the once hermetically sealed area starts with the view of the abandoned vehicles, which cannot be used due to the high level of radioactive contamination. If the radiation level in the area itself remains in the values considered normal, once we get nearer to the vehicles, the needle on the Geiger scale shows a few times higher valued – even though they have been standing there abandoned for a quarter of a century.

Next stop is at the monument of the fire-fighters who headed into the nuclear hell to contain the fire and prevent the second explosion, which would have been far greater to the first one, which happened on April 26th 1986 on block four of the power plant in Chernobyl. Most of the men died immediately or within a frame of a few days after the accident. Without their heroic sacrifice the lives of millions in the nearby capitals of Ukraine and White Russia (Kiev and Minsk) would be threatened, as well as all the other settlements in the vicinity. They also prepared a disaster that would endanger entire Europe, through the fall of the radioactive rain.

Next stop is within Chernobly itself, on a river island on the River Pripjat, which used to be an important river harbour, but is now a ship graveyard. Forest workers have their base on the island, trying to revitalize forests in the area.

The history of Chernobyl dates back to the 12th century and the old centre is only 20km away from the plant, which lies in the very heart of Pripjat (named after the river). Pripjat was a planned city that did not exist before the construction of the nuclear power plant – that’s why the plant got the name Chernobyl.

After entering the second area – of complete abandonment – we take a look at the kindergarten in a nearby village that was burned still in time and space. Because of the sudden evacuation, all the things from the tragic April of 1986 are still there: from colouring books, toys, beds… everything warning us about the size of the catastrophe.

Since older population did not believe the news of a nuclear danger, for the radiation cannot be seen nor heard, they started returning to their contaminated homes – so the government decided to demolish them in order to prevent the people to ignorantly return to their premature nuclear death. Dozens of houses were demolished and only piles, overgrown with grass and shrubs, along the road testify they were once there.

Prior to entering the town of Pripjat we pass red pines. This was the site of the first radioactive blast wave after the explosion of the block 4. The colour of the trees – pines and other – changed and this is still believed to be the most contaminated place on the face of the planet. It’s the only area with virtually no animal life. For 25 years, there had been no bird songs here and the needle on the Geiger meter rose beyond normal in the car already. When the driver placed it out the window, the level rose dramatically. We did not leave the vehicle, for walking in this area represents extreme health hazards even so many years after the disaster.

At the entrance of the town itself is yet another control point, the second and third one ensuring complete control over the depopulated area and preventing any radioactive leakage out of the zone.

The area we’re visiting now is being washed daily, to reduce the radiation, which is mostly in the normal area, but in some areas these levels are simply too high. Generally a visit of a few hours does not pose a threat, but only as long as you stay in the designated and safe area.

Outside the designated safe zone the situation is much different, thus the efforts of the foresters, who are permanently reducing the level of radioactivity are so much more impressive.

After the third control point we enter the town of Pripyat. We arrive on the Lenin avenue, which is overgrown after so many years. At the time of the disaster the city had almost 50.000 residents in 5 parts of the city. Members of 23 nations from the Soviet Union lived here, with the average age being under 30 years. Each part of the city had its own school centre and three day-care centres. The town average was two births per day. It was built with the highest living standards in mind, for it had three covered swimming bools, several gyms, cultural centres, dance halls, discothèques, cinemas and an amusement park, which was due to open on the international work day May 1st in 1986 (5 days after the explosion), so it never started operating.

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