Finland, with its capital Helsinki in the south and Rovaniemi, the capital of its northern part near the North Pole, is the happiest country in the world. It had been on our bucket list for a while, and now the wish has finally come true. I find this country so fascinating, I could go on and on about it.
Finland, covering 338,462 km² and home to just 5.5 million people, is one of the least densely populated countries in the world. Did you know that as much as 87 percent of Finland is covered by forest?
Finland was chosen as the happiest country in the world, even though the Finns themselves say that is not the case. The reason they were chosen is because people in Finland do not really stress about their money or future finances. Social security and support for citizens are well developed. For example, if someone loses their job, the state provides benefits that continue until they find a new job. If someone is unable to keep up with mortgage or housing costs, the state steps in with up to 80 percent support until their financial situation improves. As a result, there are no homeless people in Finland.
The birth of a child means three years of maternity leave for the mother. Schoolchildren have just 20 hours of lessons a week – only three hours on Monday and Tuesday, and four to five hours from Wednesday to Friday. Children are not put under pressure, and schools do not have tests because they do not encourage competition.
Although Finns are known for being introverted, they are very friendly and approachable. They openly talk in saunas, which is the opposite of most countries, where people are meant to be quiet.
The country has great food and plenty of shops with well-known Scandinavian brands. The philosophy of less is more, where “less” must be both stylish and practical, is part of their culture and can be seen everywhere without even trying.
In Finland, they do not know crowds, no one is in a hurry, life is calm and relaxed. You can see it on the roads too, as drivers always stop for pedestrians. They love to share smiles, and their warmth shines straight from their eyes.
Finland is part of the Nordic countries, which include all the Scandinavian nations: Denmark, Norway, Sweden, and Iceland.
We flew to Finland with Ryanair from Bergamo Airport in Italy. It is about four hours by car to the airport from Ljubljana, Slovenia's capital. We left our car at the airport during our vacation and paid 49 euros for parking.
We landed at Helsinki airport late, and the time in Finland is even an hour ahead of Slovenia. We took a taxi to our apartment in the city centre, with a fixed fare of 35 euros from the airport to the centre.
Helsinki is home to about 660,000 people and spreads across 213.8 km². It became the capital in 1812, before which Turku held the title since 1229. Turku is the oldest city in Finland, home to about 180,000 people.
In Helsinki, winter days run from 9:15 am to 3 pm. In Lapland, the days are even shorter, lasting only from 11 am to 2 pm.
The next day we woke up to a lightly snowy morning, with temperatures around zero, and walked to the iconic Fazer Café on Kluuvikatu 3 for breakfast. There are quite a few Fazer Cafés around Helsinki, but the first and most famous is the one at this location.
We tried some traditional treats: cinnamon buns (Pulla), a vegan pistachio roll, and a sweet butter roll. Of course, tradition calls for cacao with cream, which our children enjoyed, while we treated ourselves to coffee. Our apartment was right in the city centre, which made exploring a lot easier since we could walk everywhere.
Helsinki is not exactly famous worldwide for its food. At least not yet. I think that is set to change, as the city offers incredibly varied, tasty, and seasonal food, carefully prepared with any dietary requirements in mind. I think this is one of the easiest cities in the world for finding vegan, vegetarian, or allergy-friendly options, with every restaurant offering at least one suitable dish. Having vegetarian and vegan options on the menu is more the rule than the exception. This is also thanks to the law requiring every restaurant, bar, or bistro to offer at least one vegan dish. They adhere to this very nicely, not only with one dish, but with a whole range of diverse vegan food.
At the Helsinki City Museum we learned about the history of the Finns and their country. Entrance to the museum is free. Everyone in our family really enjoyed the exhibition called Children's Town. Visiting the museum was also a great way to warm up our frozen fingers and toes. I would recommend the tour to anyone planning to go there.
Restaurant prices are quite high, so I recommend having lunch at one of the three markets, where the balance of food quality, choice, and price is the best. We ate at Helsinki’s oldest market, Vanha Kauppahalli (Old Market Hall), which dates to 1889.
We liked it for its wide range of food, lovely wooden interior, cosy feel, and convenient location. The market is right next to the Baltic Sea. Check out the video where I try the food we ordered. We also visited the iconic Stockmann shopping mall, which was nothing special; full of brand names and sky-high prices.
Just as Stockmann is an iconic shopping centre, Löyly is the most popular and modern sauna in Helsinki. We skipped it and instead headed for a real experience with an authentic Finnish sauna in Tampere which is two hours away by the Näsijärvi Lake at the Rauhaniemi ice-hole sauna. As the name suggests, it is a frozen lake where they cut a hole for swimming. The moment when you walk out of a hot sauna and slip into a lake that is absolutely freezing is unforgettable. With our hats on in the ice-cold lake, we felt like proper locals. It was a crazy, refreshing feeling. They also skate, walk, and cross-country ski on the lake. I highly recommend this unique experience.
There are three million saunas for 5.5 million people in Finland. By law, every apartment, flat, or house must have its own sauna. Here are a few rules and quirks of sauna culture in Finland:
Interesting fact: In Helsinki, next to the city’s oldest market, Vanha Kauppahalli, there is a Ferris wheel where you can enjoy a sauna and visit a bar while floating in the air. This is what makes the wheel unique and a truly one-of-a-kind experience. Spending time in a sauna is an important activity for the Finns, as you can find one almost everywhere. Even the fast-food chain Burger King has a sauna in one of its restaurants in Helsinki!
Right after the sauna, libraries are the next most important thing for Finns. In libraries you can borrow not just books, but also musical instruments. You can rent a space with a kitchen, tools, and more, all free of charge. In Helsinki alone there are 37 libraries where you can borrow all the above. The most beautiful iconic library and well worth a visit is the Central Library.
Just like in Sofia, Bulgaria, we decided to take a two-hour free guided tour of Helsinki. We booked the tour online. The tour is not entirely free as there is a 2.99 euro booking fee per person, except for the children. We made the reservation through the Viator website. At the end of the tour, it is customary to give the guide a tip.
I recommend setting aside two hours for an educational wander around Helsinki. We started at Senate Square by the city’s largest and most popular cathedral and ended the tour at Helsinki Central Library. This is the famous, biggest library I mentioned earlier.
After two hours of walking around Helsinki we headed for lunch and, since most places were closed for the holidays, we ended up at the Georgian restaurant Rioni in the city centre. We were pleasantly surprised by the symphony of flavours in every vegan dish we ordered. Check out the video where I talk more about this experience.
Strolling through Helsinki’s decorated streets, with the calm pace and smiles on people’s faces, left a strong impression on us. If you are planning a trip to Finland over the Christmas holidays, most shops and restaurants are closed on 25 and 26 December. Even so, there are grocery stores that stay open 24 hours a day.
In the next part of the travelogue, coming in January, I will take you further north to the magical Lapland. There we met Santa Claus, went on a husky sled ride, visited Santa’s Village, and experienced a true polar fairytale. More unforgettable impressions, fascinating insights, and tips await anyone dreaming of a winter escape to the magical North.
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