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Time Well Spent in Zadar

From sea organs to magical waterfalls

Zadar is one of the most pleasant coastal towns in Croatia. The old town centre is partly surrounded by tall medieval walls. This part of the town is marked by a few palaces from the Venetian period, villas, churches and archaeological sites. Surprisingly, the city walls enclose a large, shaded park, just a short walk from narrow stone streets full of shops and restaurants to suit every budget and taste.

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The coastal promenade of the waterfront attracts the most visitors. Especially its far end, where the unique sea organ has been installed. They call it that because the waves are what make it work! Here the shoreline is shaped into stone steps that lead down to the sea, making a pleasant place to sit. Under the steps there are 35 pipes of different sizes and shapes that use the sea’s pressure to create sounds. Underground, flutes are attached to the pipes. Above them are stone slabs with holes that let the sound through, made by air pushed by the sea waves as it moves through the pipes.

Nearby, in the evenings you can enjoy another unusual attraction called The Greeting to the Sun. It’s a large circle made up of about three hundred glass panels, with solar cells underneath that create a kind of symbolic link to the sun. At sunset, the lights in the circle switch on, playing a programmed light show that moves to the rhythm of the waves and the sounds of the nearby sea organ.

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Home of the maraschino

Zadar has a lively nightlife and is also known for its many sports, cultural and music events. Even if you’re not a fan of alcoholic drinks, it’s worth trying maraschino, a sweet cherry liqueur that was first made right here in this town. It is made by distilling a special, flavourful and aromatic variety of Marasca cherries, which also gives its name to the local factory that produces both alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks. The clear, sweet liqueur is most often used in cocktails but also works well as an aperitif or for baking different desserts. The liqueur contains about 30 percent alcohol and has a strong sweet and bitter flavour. Similar liqueurs are made in other parts of the world, but the most famous one comes from Zadar, where Marasca cherries grow best. The liqueur has been made since the 16th century. It impressed aristocrats at many European courts. It soon became popular around the world and is said to have been enjoyed on the Titanic’s final voyage.

A cosy hostel

It’s not very difficult to find a place to stay in Zadar. An HI hostel is also available. You can stay in rooms of different sizes with bathrooms, suitable for both groups and solo travellers. Female only dorms are also available. Some rooms offer sea views and may have a balcony, but all are comfortably furnished.

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The colourful walls in the corridors and photos of Croatian sights add to the pleasant atmosphere. The dining room is spacious, and the breakfast buffet is just what you’d expect from a hostel. A few arcade machines are set up near the dining room, perfect for some fun on the rare rainy days. Of course, free Wi-Fi is also available. In the warmer months, the shady garden with chairs, tables and a friendly outdoor bar is where most of the activity happens. If you’re in the mood for something different, there are more bars and pubs in the area. There’s also a grocery store just around the corner. The closest beach is only a short walk away, and even more are lined up on the nearby, mostly pine-covered peninsula.

The hostel is about five kilometres from the town centre. If you’d prefer not to walk along the coast, you can take the city bus or rent a bike nearby the hostel. If you arrive by car, it’s easy to find free parking on the streets around the hostel. I decided not to drive into town because parking near the centre is harder to find, and all the spaces there require payment.

A charming area

The hostel staff do their best to make your stay enjoyable by offering advice and organising trips to local and other places. Zadar is an excellent base for visiting nearby islands, from Ugljan and Pašman to Dugi Otok and the Kornati islands.

You can also visit nearby Šibenik, or even better, the Krka National Park. Krka has many waterfalls like those at Plitvice, but they generally carry more water. The hostel can help organise a visit to Skradinski Buk, the most famous group of waterfalls.

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You can explore this part of the national park on your own, as small passenger boats operate along the river. You can take a trip to the nearby port town of Skradin, or travel upstream to the island with a monastery and several other waterfalls. You can admire as many as seven groups of waterfalls along the river. On hot summer days, the water is refreshingly cool, and together with the green surroundings, it offers a welcome escape from the warmer coastal areas. There are plenty of walking trails that let you explore the picturesque river where many mills once operated.

The national park area is known for its rich variety of plants and wildlife. You can admire many kinds of birds, butterflies, dragonflies, fish, frogs and more. Snakes also like to sunbathe around riverbanks. The most common are grass snakes, which can grow well over a metre long, but they’re harmless and quickly slip away when people approach. The upper part of the park is only accessible by car or, with a bit more effort, by bike. In the towns of Kistanje and Puljane, modern information and research centres with a museum have been established in recent years to showcase the park's natural features. The centres feature a wide range of interactive displays.

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