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Discovering China’s Wonders – Part 5

Xi’an – a journey back in time

Shanghai makes you feel as though you’ve stepped into the future, but Xi’an feels like stepping back in time. The city still has much of its traditional character and is closely connected to Chinese culture. The thing that attracts the most visitors to China these days is the futuristic cities, but Xi’an will show you a completely different side.

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As one of China’s oldest cities, Xi’an also has an important place in the country’s history. Once known as Chang’an, it was China’s first capital and remained the capital under several dynasties. It was also the eastern starting point of the Silk Road. Today, Xi’an is home to almost 13 million people and is the capital of Shaanxi Province in north-western China.

There aren’t many direct flights between Europe and Xi’an, so flying there isn’t always the most convenient option. It makes much more sense to include Xi’an as a stop on a longer trip through China and travel there from Beijing or the slightly more distant Shanghai. Both Xianyang Airport and Xi’an North Railway Station are connected to the city centre by metro. Public transport in Xi’an is excellent overall and will get you to all the city’s main sights.

The city centre is built around two towers – one known for its drums and the other for its bell. Both towers were built in the 14th century, and you can climb to the top of them for a great view over the city. Once it gets dark, both towers are lit up, which adds to their charm.

Just a short walk from the towers, you’ll find the Muslim Quarter, home to a Muslim community of more than 60,000 people. This area developed during the Tang Dynasty, and it’s where you can find ten different mosques. The largest of them is the Great Mosque, which is definitely worth a visit. Nearby, you’ll also find the Du City God Temple, which was built more than 600 years ago. Today, the Muslim Quarter is best known among visitors for its huge choice of street food, especially along Huimin Street.

Terracotta Army of China's first emperor Qin Shi Huang at the museum near Xian.

The city centre is surrounded by one of the oldest and best-preserved city walls in China. It was built in the 14th century to protect the city from enemy attacks. The wall is around 14 kilometres long, and the best way to explore it is to rent a bike and cycle the entire route. Outside the city walls, you’ll find the Giant and Small Wild Goose Pagodas. Both are tiered towers with several overhanging roofs and mark important Buddhist sites. The Giant Wild Goose Pagoda is 64 metres tall, with the Tang Paradise theme park just a short walk away.

The main reason why travellers come to Xi’an is the Terracotta Army. The museum is around 40 kilometres from the city centre, and there are several ways to get there. The easiest option is to take a direct tourist bus from the city centre. You can also use public transport by taking the metro to Fangzhicheng Station and then taking bus 306 to the Terracotta Army Museum. It’s best to buy your ticket in advance, because the queues at the ticket office tend to get quite long.

The collection of terracotta figures depicts the army of China’s first emperor, Qin Shi Huang. It was created in the 3rd century BC to protect the emperor in the afterlife. The figures were only discovered in 1974, when local farmers came across them completely by chance. This means that no one knew about them for more than 2,000 years, as there were no written records of their existence. There is a lot of mystery surrounding the Terracotta Army. More than 2,000 figures have been found across three pits, but experts believe there are at least 6,000 more still waiting to be excavated. The figures differ according to their role in the army, and no two are exactly alike.

Historic Xian City Wall with traditional watchtowers on a rainy day.

With Beijing and Shanghai attracting most of the attention, Xi’an often gets overlooked, which is a real shame. This is where Chinese culture first began to take shape, and you can still feel its history everywhere you go. With China developing at such a rapid pace in the 21st century, Xi’an offers a welcome contrast to the country’s more modern cities. Xi’an is one of the best places to get a real sense of China and its history. On top of that, the Terracotta Army is often described as the eighth wonder of the world and is easily one of the most incredible things you’ll ever see.

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